
Though I planned almost nothing for this day, most everything turned out wonderfully. I started the day early with a bowl of granola and soy milk and a trip to the Fahrradmarkt (bike market). Unsuccessful, again. After taking pictures the DOM to help remember information from the tour on Friday, I met up with my architect friend. We walked down the banks of the mighty Rhine river to take a look at some of the new buildings going up and their interesting modern designs. On the way back to town, we stumbled upon a small classic show featuring a few nice BMWs, Isettas, and a good collection of Mercedes sedans. We split ways and I made it back to the Wohnung (apartment) in time for brunch with my host family. I ended up talking with them for a while and missed meeting up with my friends to go to Bonn, a smaller city about a half an hour south on the train. I decided to go anyway so I packed a sandwich, an orange, and loaded the maps on my trusty GPS.
Thirty minutes later I arrived at the quaint town of Bonn, famous for Beethoven and maybe the currywurst, but I think the sign on the sausage stand was stretching the truth a bit. I first decided to make my way to Beethoven’s birth house-turned museum. Similar to Mozart’s place in Salzburg, Beethoven’s museum is situated right in the middle of the narrow-street old town shopping district. The house had a few musical instruments, original sheet music, and paintings of the relevant folks of the time as well as plaques with biographical information. The building was in good repair but I would have thought the first thing they would fix would have been the floors. Not so. They were the squeakiest wooden floors I have experienced ever. Distractingly loud, even. It was cool to stand still and see the very room where a piece of musical greatness was born. Afterwards I went to their “Studio” slipped on the headphones, and listened to the “Pastorale” section of his 6th symphony for the orchestra while reading along with images of the original manuscript. It was awesome. When everyone else was gone, I conducted. I was surprised at how few notes there were on the pages – a lot of repeats and so on. There were also a lot of sections that were crossed out and the numbering on the corners of the pages indicated that he changed the order a bit as well.

After that exciting classical experience, I wandered the streets until I felt lost. When I looked up, I saw a sign for the Arithmium and I went for it. What a find! The entire museum was devoted to intricate machines designed to do one thing: calculate. This museum chronicled the mechanical calculator throughout the ages and had several available for use. These things were all unique intricate masterpieces of mathematics, logic, and mechanical design. I used a couple to add and multiply some numbers. They generally worked like this: clear all registers, slide register to one’s position, select add, input numbers, turn wheel, input numbers, turn wheel, see result. I was “geeking out” as they say.

I walked around a bit more, strolling past the botanical gardens, some cannons that guarded the city back when it needed guarding, and a couple of weddings. On the way back through the inner part of town I ducked into a smallish church. It was cool to have such beautiful inner and outer architecture secluded in the peace and quite of a church amongst the hustle and bustle of Bonn life. It was nice to sit in quite for a while.

My time in Bonn ended at an Iron Maiden and AC/DC tribute band concert in one of the bigger plazas. Out of the quaint buildings, cobblestone alleys, and traditional local pubs wandered long haired enthusiasts proclaiming their affinity for rock with black T-shirts and prolific leather vests. After a few minutes of rocking out, I made haste to the Hauptbahnhoff to catch the train back to Köln. I bolted back to the house, chugged some juice and jumped into my concert clothes in the hopes that I’d make it to the Kölner Philharmonie at 8pm. By the time I got to the venue near the DOM, the symphony had been playing for a few minutes. However, there was one sole ticket remaining and I won the coin toss so the euro68 seat was mine for the night.
I entered the hall after the first song. It was a spectacular room. It was all unpainted swoopy wood with box seats that surround the stage which was flanked by columns of organ pipes on the left and the obligatory euro-spiral staircase on the right. Before I describe the 1st piece I heard, I will say that such music is very difficult to play and they did it well, I think. It was kind of like this: the director says “Okay everyone, this is going to be a greatest hits song. Everyone play your own favorite song, but only play every few seconds or minutes and whatever it is play loud and fast when I wave my hands furiously.” To my uncultured ears, this contemporary music wasn’t as melodious and pleasing as some things. But the Brahms afterwards made up for it.

Brahms Symphonie 4, op.98 was a good one. Daniel Barenboim was conducting and he did a great job. It reminded me of the Sorcerers’ Apprentice. He was dancing about in front of a churning sea of dresses, suits, and string instruments; this orchestra swayed around a lot and their motion kind of added to the swellings and dynamics of the music. After about 10 minutes of clapping, with the musicians standing and sitting for recognition at the directors command like an über-directed crowd-wave, the director started pulling flowers out of a bouquet and handing them out to some of the soloists. Suddenly, he pulled a baton out of the bouquet! The musicians sat, he stood, and before we knew it, they were off into another nice tune.
I sat next to a music student from Chile studying German in Bonn. He’ll be studying percussion performance in Munich in a few months so it was cool to get his opinion on the performance.
What a day.