Manhole Cover.
I took very few pictures that day, mostly because I didn't want my hands to freeze.
Leipzig
On a whim, I decided to go to Leipzig. I looked up a couple of things to do before I went to bed, made a list, and forgot the list at home when I caught the train the following morning. This is at least the second time I’ve forgot my list (museums, train times, other things to see) but all my other trips have turned out well and this one was no exception.
I visited this little church when I got a bit lost wandering. They were rehearsing the Christmas Pageant.
About two hours after I left, I arrived in Leipzig, a nice city roughly the size of Portland Oregon. I GPSed my way to the opera house, reserved tickets for some stuff and then quickly shuffled my way over to the nearest warm area – the Grassi museum complex. This is an organization paired with a university in the city and in addition to research, it runs three museums. I visited the Music Instrument museum and it was neat. For a relatively little two Euros, I had the entire museum to myself (aside from the security guards – hence, no pictures). On display were hundreds (thousands?) of different musical instruments from the last thousand or so years. They were mostly un-identifiable to modern eyes but there were good descriptions and opportunities to hear recordings of music played with the instruments. Strings, keys, mouthpieces, bells, buttons, cranks, ect. They had pretty much every possible combination of music making devices in various sorts of weird instruments. Some were so unique, it seemed as if a musician would have to get good at playing a specific instrument, not just a specific type of instrument.
I snagged a bratwurst at the Weihnachtsmarkt and enjoyed walking around the streets for a while on my way to the Musikalisches Komodie, a small theater away from the center of town. Der Zauberer von Oss was playing and it was great. “The Wizard of Oz” doesn’t quite enjoy the same amount of popularity as in the states, but everything, songs and all, was translated into German. It was very well done and easy to follow.
This is a view from the opera house. A building undergoing restoration, the symphony performance center, and a fantastic landmark.
With about an hour and a half to spend before the next event, I wandered through the inner city a bit more. Leipzig, in contrast to other bigger cities in the area, was rebuilt immediately after it was destroyed. It still had that old town atmosphere of old architecture and narrow streets that isn’t present in Magdeburg, for example. It was a nice place to walk around. There were many street performers, lots of people, and a general hum of activity.
Der Fliegende Höllander (The Flying Dutchman) by Richard Wagner played at the Leipzig Opera house from 7-9:30pm without a break. The Flying Dutchman is an opera about some sort of haunting boat captain or something. I looked at it briefly before I left, deciding I’d figure out more when I watched it. Not the case. The opera was modernized. The set consisted of plain skyscraper type buildings of various heights (2meters at most) scattered about a black slightly tilted stage. After experiencing an interesting modern art piece at the Guggenheim museum in NYC consisting of some sort of image of plain apartment buildings with lighted windows partially obscured by moving fog, I have a bit of an interest in plain buildings with lighted windows so this set was kind of cool to me.
The orchestra jammed for a bit and then the show kicked off (jammed = played an overture, show kicked off = opera began). If I’m honest, it was a bit slow at the beginning and I may have dozed off. When I awoke after a few minutes, there was a topless girl dancing seductively on the stage. Interesting. The folks were still singing, of course, but that was just the beginning of the weirdness. The entire time, a large screen played projected video of seemingly random videos and images, for example naked people walking into each other 30 times in a row. The singing continued, and it was very good. Toward the end, a dozen or so guys came out in boxers, dumped gallons of oil on their heads, and then they destroyed the set. Though the opera was in German, I understood very little but I also did not understand how anything I was seeing could pertain to a Flying Dutchman. Bizarre.
I know a couple of people living in Leipzig with the same exchange program so we met up after the opera and had hot chocolate. Delicious.